Tackling Thai Food : Chim's Thai Kitchen

Thai food in Columbia has been a challenge for me. Too much of it seems like Chinese food with peanut sauce thrown on it. I tried everyone's favorites and had a few dishes here and there that became favorites. But overall, I had written off Thai food in Columbia, Missouri.

Until last week when I met my pal Scott at the new Chim's location. He'd been sining the praises of the Jefferson City location to me as long as I had know him. But he had never brought me any despite repeated requests. I could have made it out to Cooper's Landing and had some for myself (they run the Thai truck there) but somehow bike riding + outside with bugs didn't = Thai for me. So lunch was my first Chim's experience.

We ordered the Tom Yum Kai soup to share and each got one of our Thai faves. I went with the Laab and Scott got the Pad Kra Pao. I asked for a spice level of seven while Scott kicked it up to nine. Since Marcia Vanderlip was there writing a story for the Tribune, our food was served to us by Chim herself.

And then my taste buds were happy. Finally Thai dishes that were subtle and layered. It takes skill to make fish sauce tickle your taste buds instead of walloping your jaw. My baselines (Laab and Tom Yum Kai) were executed well but it was really Scott's dish that won me over. The balance of Thai basil and peppers hit the mark and the fresh bell peppers added color and crunch. I would go back again and again just to eat it.

Get yourself over there stat. It's in Peachtree but it's less puzzling than most. Take a left at Break Time, and it's down a few feet on your right. Go, eat, and ask for extra fish sauce.

Chim’s Thai Kitchen, 3907 Peach Tree Lane at Nifong Square; 777-8626. Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.